I'm having the same experience here in Korea. There are so many things that are quintessentially Korean-- those things that even elementary school kids could verbalize when prompted to talk about this Asian culture. Of course, there's Kimchee, rice, chopsticks, ancient palaces, traditional silk robes, jade pottery, and bulgogi. But, one of the most traditional aspects I wanted our family to experience is staying in a Korean Hanok.
There has been a huge push in the last 60 years to preserve these traditional Korean homes-- and in many places historical societies have created folk villages with a group of hanok homes where people demonstrate what a typical Korean village would look like and how it functioned. In many cities, these quaint homes with delicate rice paper sliding walls, ondol heating under the wooden floors, and beautifully curving roofs with intricate tiles, have been replaced with high-rise apartment towers. Of course, in a country where the population of the capital city tops 10 million, apartment towers ARE far more practical housing options. But, they are far less charming-- and certainly not unique to Korea!
A couple of weekends ago, on a sojourn to Seoul, we arranged to stay at a hanok in a part of town called Insadong. It's an artsy community flanked by an impressive palace and populated by small boutique shops where you can buy custom made jewelry, clothes, shoes and pottery. Insadong clings to heritage and traditional methods-- and the residents of this neighborhood are proud of the history they have been able to preserve and keep relevant in an increasingly modern city.
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| The past and the present in harmony: a porche in front of a traditional hanok. |
The hanok we stayed in, Buchon Maru, is a family affair-- run by a son and his parents who live on the lower level, and have converted the top floor to guest accommodations. We were able to secure their "family room" which was a space large enough for all seven of us to spread out mats and sleep on the heated floor. Much like a western B&B, the room was private with communal bathroom and dinning area. The kids thought it was great-- like camping, but warm and inside! The best of both worlds!
We were welcomed on Saturday evening by the parents who spoke only broken English-- but we got by between my limited Korean, their rudimentary English and lots of pointing.
They only have one son, so seeing all of us together was something they marveled at throughout most of our stay. They immediately took to the kids-- especially JP and Trinity who were the recipients of continual hugs, pats on the head, and admiration. The sweet ajima even brought Trinity a little Winnie-the-Pooh stuffed animal to help her feel comfortable!
The kids rolled out their bedding mats and got tucked in for the night under layers of lofty down comforters. Before Joe and I headed to bed, we locked the door-- Korean style..... which means, slipping a spoon through the ring on the door and the bracket on the wall. Yes, a spoon. While unconventional, it was effective!
The next morning, Joshua, their son arrived to help cook and serve breakfast. Joshua is typical of most 20-something Koreans: well-educated, well-mannered, and well-traveled. He learned English in school and has a remarkable grasp of the language despite having never lived in, nor visited, an English speaking country. His goal is to fly to the United States later this year and spend about 6 months there immersed in our culture to polish his English skills. He is also fluent in Chinese, and works as a Chinese translator for tourists visiting Seoul. An impressive young man, he welcomed us as if we were his own family-- and he had fun goofing around with the kids throughout the morning.
They offer a traditional Korea breakfast in the morning for their guests-- which means rice, kimchee, and fish soup. The kids were ecstatic that they each got their own bowl of rice-- it's much easier to stomach fish at 9 in the morning if you can wash it down with sticky rice! And Joshua's mother, sensitive to the needs of the kids also made them some eggs with vegetables and a traditional Korean pizza-- which is like a cross between a fritatta and a potato pancake. They devoured both of those treats, and didn't even let the logistical challenge of eating "pizza" with chopsticks deter them!
After breakfast, they brought out a selection of clothes that Koreans traditionally wear at their wedding. Somehow, I convinced Joe that he and I should try them on-- because, again, there are just some traditional things you SHOULD experience!! He was reluctant at first, but agreed.....when they brought out a pair of pink silk pants for him to put on, he was regretting his decision! (I think pink might be his color!)
The kids desperately wanted to partake in our dress-up experience, but they didn't have outfits in their sizes. Joshua promised the next time we come to visit that he would find kiddo size garb for them to try. Thefab5 immediately asked when we could come again!
We spent the last part of our stay taking pictures-- at least 100, I'm sure! Joshua and his parents wanted pictures of each of the kids, with each of the kids, pictures of the whole group, of just our family, of our family with Joshua.... you get the idea. They were so enamored with our family, and truly honored that we would choose to stay with them. It was an overwhelming experience-- to go from anonymous internet booking customers to part of the family in 12 short hours. This family was sincere, genuine, and desired only to make us feel welcome and comfortable. They had no idea what wonderful ambassadors for Korea they were that day: they kids were enthralled with the home, the people, the food. And when you are seeking to understand and explore a new culture, enthusiasm is a parent's best friend.
I am absolutely enchanted by these wonderful experiences. What a fantastic education the children are getting. Love to all
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